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10/06/2014

Lyudmila Norsoyan : " We do fashion of 21st century. This fashion of Intelligence, Innovation , and of course, beauty , convenience and protection."

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It is already late evening, it is still cold and mad vanity in the street. An endless stream of people does not stop, people actively discussing something, checking something, sweeping with a pile of clothes, cameras are clicking without rest, blinding spotlights, not allowing for a moment left without glasses. For a moment, chaos takes a back seat, and my attention takes tiny figure, wrapped in a black jersey, elegantly sliding on the floor: Lyudmila Norsoyan arrived. Our meeting lasted for the whole evening which was full of emotions and inspirations which made me look at the whole fashion with a completely new angle. And with great pleasure I share with you my impressions, once again remembering our conversation and now in aloud.

- Lyudmila , good evening ! Welcome to Armenia. I am very glad to see you today at the Armenian Fashion Week. You open today's show, guests are already arrived, less than an hour is left . All are excited and looking forward to starting. Of course, youl worry more than others because the show will take place in your home country. Behind the scenes you have mentioned that you are in Armenia for the second time and the reason is the fashion week. Everyone, even among professionals, the name is associated with fireworks, brightness, podiums and spotlights. What is your perception of Fashion Week? What is it for you - another exam, an arena for self-expression, a staircase leading to a new professional level?

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- Good evening , Mary! Thank you for the invitation. Really exciting for me to be here, in the homeland of my ancestors. In Armenia, I am, in fact, for the first time. And, of course, I am happy! I got a lot of impressions and emotions, moreover, a new food for thought, new sources of inspiration in professional terms. Very proud of this and I hope soon I will share with you the results. I agree with you that Fashion Week - a celebration for the public and the workflow for you and us - the professionals of field. It is always the exam. Always moving forward. Apart from all, particularly for me it was another opportunity to directly address the audience. After all, we work in the 21st century, we do fashion of the 21st century. This is the fashion of Intelligence, Innovation, and of course, beauty, convenience and protection. We came to talk about it, show it. Current fashion, despite its innovation is ruled by emotions, colors and love.

- During your reply I remembered the phrase of Miuccia Prada that "beauty without intelligence, firstly is raw and secondly, not interesting." Summing the saying, you work with "smart knits," that is, in fact, a propaganda of intellectual fashion.

- Ivery touching attitude towards that word. For me, there are no boundaries Moreover, I follow the well-known expression of Boris Pasternak : "The writer has to be intelligent , the reader is not obliged to." The same is for me, It is important for me that my clothes are comfortable for women, relaxed and pleased that she is happy. The rest is applicable!

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- In your early years as a designer you worked under the pseudonym Kusso. Why? What is your choice meant? And how the transition to the first and last name Lyudmila Norsoyan occurred? Maybe it was related to the revaluation of values, with a new perception of fashion?

- This is a very touching story. My mother was Georgian , and in my childhood she was callilng me Kusso. As I was explained later, this word is translated as a newly hatched surprised chick. In the first years of work in this area, I felt like just that - recently hatched chicken, opening a new world. It is these first impressions - naivety, innocence fresh perception of fashion - I expressed through the pseudonym. Over the time, many things have changed, I turned to the intellectual component of fashion, to its industrial side. Here then the alarm button informing you that "that's all, childhood is over, the time has come when you have to answer for yourself." Here there was my rebirth as Lyudmila Norsoyan.

- You first degree is biochemist. Was a period in your life when all professional space occupied biochemistry and fashion, catwalks lived in the future?

- No. I'm a classic product of the era of perestroika. I studied at the Faculty of Biochemistry, graduated with honor. However, everything was in the era of perestroika-transformation. The birth of my firstborn There was a situation in which the diploma of a biochemist interested nobody. Then handy craft came to help and my hands helped me. I have infinitely knitting. At that time, people were not buying and selling. We lived on the barter principle - traded goods. Every year I dreamed that soon I will start doing my favorite thing to go into science with head. It happened , but in a slightly different form. My scientific education has allowed me to go up to the fashion industry as a logical problem solver logically. This great working tool , which I shamelessly use to this days (laughs, authors’ note) .

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- Thus, besides the fact that you have developed your own processing technology of jersey, you have also created a new female type. Woman in fashion and science. And the resulting output image is that fashion is a science. Fashion is also a science.

- Yes! Fashion is lovely thrilling science. This adventure in the style of Jules Verne. And when the adventure is layered on scientific knowledge, the result is something quite fantastic. This is an industry that uses strict economic formulas, resorted to organizational methods. And the use of space technology in the design of clothes is a different world. It looks delicate, refined product that defends, protects and beautifies. In what other sphere, as in fashion , this is possible?

- Probably, what is created by you is symbolizes you. Externally you are tiny, frail woman, but with huge knowledge, intelligence, experience and wisdom. When watching your collections unwittingly you remember the international names: Viktor & Rolf, Yamamoto, Norsoyan and Chloe. Dominant black, gray, absolutely incredible forms and silhouettes, asymmetry. It seems that it received all the irony of the moment. Where do you get your inspiration from? Have you studied to be designer or the ideas born from everyday life, from those ones that you encounter every minute?

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- You know, all together. We do not operate in a vacuum. Our eyes see, our ears hear, the brains analyze. My work is a mixture of science, culture, education, art, jet- set lifestyle and, of course, looking around at the sides in order to clarify, but what do the best in the world are doing. This process is inevitable, we all draw inspiration from each other. But also the competitive factor should not be forgotten. We're talking about the field that requires a share of vanity in the blood. About how high technology is not in question, what kind of economies would we have not talked, fashion intertwined with creative horizons. And creativity is always an element of vanity, compete and this very "spying on the sides ."

- How does Norsoyan’s outfit start?

- On this question I will answer with the words of Akhmatovskaya: "If you knew of what litter grow poems without facing shame." In fact, there are many sources. For example, just a few hours ago I was faced with a new culture: national Armenian carpets cross-stones woven on them. But for the most part of my inspiration - factories, technological capacity, space equipment which is super tehnologic. All this provides a much richer and more food for thought than any visualization I periodically come to the factory, watching equipment, talking to mechanics, programmers. Technologies enable new forms, new proportions, new plastic, then it all culminates in aesthetics. For example, seamless sweater, whose sides are tied in such a way that creates a teardrop shape. This seamless sweater can take any form on any body - male or female. This is the result of technology.

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- Today to make shows is almost the most important for all designers. And I thought, if Jean- Paul Gautier dancing with models on the catwalk, you have the opportunity to show shocking fireworks in the literal sense of the word, because you can burn the materials from which made the collection of Ludmila Norsoyan.

- This is my dream! But I was never allowed to do that. But I am very glad that all of these experiments and the full use of our materials can be carried out in the mountains, glaciers, deserts. With this video you can easily share with the audience. Catwalk requires a more expressive artistic language. Jean Paul Gautier is a genius, but our audiences are different. My work is fully disclosed in the Internet space, in of he regime “online.”

- As we come to the topic of podiums, I offer fully address it. How is the show as a final product? If the script is written, what experts are involved in this process?

- All of this can tell Stanislav. He is a renowned stylist, many designers often trust him staging their shows. Cyril Gazilin, Lyudmila Norsoyan and many others have repeatedly put their show together with Stanislav Zimin. And as designer, I can only say, as a man with delusions of grandeur, I certainly should intervene into everything! (laughs author’s note). Music, girls, directing and everything else should go through my control. It's a matter of professionalism and delegation of authority. My first desire to say "I love Pink Floyd, AC / DC, Mozart." And then I stop myself, and I repeat, " burn out, you have already made your "high" caught. This show you are doing for those people who have entrusted their time and attention to you, because you respecting their taste. "We were lucky to have such superprofessional in Moscow, Stanislav. He studies the collection, the designer models. Then creates the show: picks saundtrek, light, etc. Professionals cannot do without: designer cherish every little thing made by them. But there comes a stylist and explains that this jacket without a certain enhancement can not be digested . The hardest thing - to give professional work, to trust him and not interfere.

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- Here they form a new definition: the designer - one who creates, the Stylist is one who combines and presents.

 - Yes, it's sure to work together - continues Stanislav. The Stylist sees the collection in the final stage, but the designer knows more about it. He must present his work stylist give you a good intro to the latter caught with what it needs to operate.

- Stanislav, and where these skills are acquired? With this vision born or experience makes her, or maybe there is a science of style, stylization ?

- Science, of course, there are a great number of schools But, in my opinion, the right vision and perception styling is a born skill. If you talk about me I'm not trained as a stylist. But, nevertheless,I have worked with many designers, stylists in glossy magazines , at various exhibitions , which gave me a tremendous experience to develop my potential. For example, my collaboration with Alexander Vassiliev gave me much more than any theory in this field. Or my way of becoming a stylist began with that editor offered me a job on one of the planned shoots , endorsing the selection of clothes and work on a style -by-frame . That's all they see, and professionals do not need to boast a diploma or other documents.

- Lyudmila and Stanislav , thank you for the interview and useful information. We all need to be already in the show hall, and I am going to ask the last question. Lyudmila what would you say to all my students immediately after meeting them?

- Fight, search, find, and never to give up!

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